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DETAILS, DETAILING AND WEATHERING LOCOMOTIVES
By Larry Lanctot
This web page was last updated on July 23rd, 2016.
|This is a HO scale model of a Walthers F40PH lettered for VIA Rail road #6444. The engine is DCC and houses a TCS decoder. a MBE horn, Details West winter hatch and air conditioner added to the roof of the unit. Ditch lights and plow added to the front pilot. Metal grabs and railings added to the sides of the unit along with Micro Scale decals. The underframe and trucks are painted and weathered a grimy black and the unit is lightly weathered. Kadee #5 couplers installed front and back.|
this is a method I developed over many years which is quick and easy... No special skills required and no air brush! This technique is not the only way or the right way .... It is just one way which is easy and gives good results.
this method is a combination of 1) adding details, 2) detailing and highlighting with chalks and paint, and finaly 3) weathering itself. It can be applied to motive power, rolling stock and structures, etc.
this method is not a one time thing and should be done at intervals to demonstrate the effects of use and the environment as the unit ages.
it is important to develop a standard so all equipment gets the same treatment and will have the same feel and will not look out of place on your layout.
a check list is a good way of keeping standards up to date and it is important to know the age of each diesel in the roster as the older units display more wear and tear than the new. However, a rebuild can look brand new.
one of the best tools to get the effect you want is to use proto photographs. Print a large copy and circle all of the details and effects you want to capture.
chalks, pastels, stencil brushes, brushes, glue applicators, sharpie coloured pens, sponges, q-tips, toothpicks, etc. Mostly available from Michael's craft stores.
Polly scale paints and pens in rail tie brown, rust, grimy black and oily black, and brushes. Available from your local hobby shop.
MODEL RAILROADER ARTICLES - APRIL 2010 ISSUE
how to weather a diesel locomotive,
weathering rolling stock with powdered pastels, and
model a weather beaten wood structure.
SEQUENCE OF ACTIVITIES
The task is to install the parts in the appropriate location for the following: horn, antenna, bell, grab irons, mu hoses, air hoses, all weather windows, wind deflectors, rerailers, brake chain, decals, etc.
2) DO THE
2) DO THE DETAILING SECOND
The task is to paint, highlight or remove paint for:
Rad caps, fuel caps, air hoses, mu hoses, railings, grabs, grills, fans, trucks, underframe, patch, and renumber, etc.
3) DO THE WEATHERING LAST
Once the details and detailing are complete, do the weathering on the unit according to where it would have been affected by use and the environment..... Rust, worn off paint, dust, exhaust, neglect, fuel stains, heat, maintenance, replaced parts, etc.
HOW TO APPLY PAINT
make sure the parts to be painted are clean and free of oils which could prevent the paint from adhering. If parts have been touched with your hands, it is best to clean the parts with denatured alcohol.
paints can be diluted with thinner to make a wash or applied full strength
for the underframe and trucks, first paint the field colour of rail tie brown and add highlights with grimy black and rust while the paint is still wet. Use the same brush and dip it in all three colours as the work progresses. Oily black can be used to simulate fuel stains later on in the process.
paint before using chalks
HOW TO APPLY CHALK
apply chalks with a stiff bristle brush
scrape chalk with a hobby knife onto a clean surface and rub the brush onto the chalk. It is best to rub a stiff bristle brush on the chalk which gives a much finer grain and offers more control
apply additional coats for depth
use darker colours first and highlight areas with a small glue applicator for fine detail
brush entire area with a large dry soft brush to blend everything in
remove as much chalk as possible with fingers, sponges, q-tips, etc. To reveal the colour not the chalk
the dryer the chalk, the easier it is to work with.
Most models are
viewed from a distance of 3 feet and do not need to be of museum
the goal is to produce a detailed and weathered model that looks like
expensive Picasso with ease of effort and minimal expense of time.
A finished model with horn, sunshades and